Elemental Ease

It has never been more convenient to shop for clothes. Consumers have access to more options than ever and need tools to help navigate the broad landscape of styles and brands. Many of us face the question: How can I be sure my clothes will last? How do I choose a style that suits me?  How can I shop at ethical and sustainable brands? How do I stay up-to-date with the latest fashion trends?

In this post, I aim to explore a framework I call Elemental Ease, which helps us source and easily compose outfits suitable for every occasion life throws our way by sourcing high-quality, on-trend garments from reputable brands. This framework considers personal style and expression as a valid dimension of a life well-lived and is intended to help us feel comfortable, confident in our outfits and at peace with our purchases.

Stylistic Precedents

There are a few precedents for elemental ease that I take inspiration from. You can think of these styles as embodiments of certain values that we strive to incorporate into our wardrobe and fashion system. They provide historical and cultural anchors, as well as a design language that translates into outfits that are both functional and stylish. I will focus primarily on menswear, although some of the ideas are applicable to both men and women.

The first direction originates from outdoor gear, workwear, military, and traditional sports apparel. What they all have in common is high-quality construction and materials built for repeated use. They also tend to feature utility elements, such as buttons, fasteners, zippers, and pockets. Garment care is typically easy to manage and may involve simply washing and drying in a machine. This style is very democratic and appeals to the needs and sensibilities of anyone who needs high-performance clothing. The major limitation of this style, though, is that it can sometimes be more functional than necessary for modern urban life. Any inspiration taken from this lineage must pare down utility elements to only what is necessary and elevate the materials to soften the ruggedness of its traditional form.

The second direction originates from school uniforms and is closely associated with the American preppy style, the French “bon chic bon genre” (meaning “stylish and classy”), and the British Sloane Ranger style. This style is academic and crisp, often associated with social respectability and refinement. The strengths of the style are largely that it confers a sense of dignity upon the wearer; however, it can also come with the baggage of exclusion that it inherits from its association with selective private schools.

The next direction is inspired by the Mediterranean style, which is associated with the activities popular in destinations such as the Greek Isles, Italy’s Amalfi Coast, and France’s Côte d’Azur. This style emphasizes relaxation, soft tailoring, and natural materials, such as linen, wool, and suede. This style features delicate but still often heirloom quality materials and there is sometimes a trade-off between utility and comfort. It also connotes a leisurely lifestyle and can be seen as more exclusive-coded than even preppy style in a way that needs to be softened and brought down-to-Earth stylistically.

One additional direction is more of an anti-style, and that is the trend-forward styles made popular by runway motifs in high fashion. Fashion is inherently progressive because it pursues novelty for its own sake, and successful ideas catch on quickly. This is the component that makes personal style expressive and interesting. Successfully pulling it off requires confidence and social fluency. This can range from the way New Balance helps to make chunky running sneakers cool to the way that wider leg jeans come in and out of style. This style is the most inclusive, as it is often driven by subcultures at the periphery of conventional culture, such as the avant-garde and alternative music circles.

Lastly, another style that is an important influence on Elemental Ease is the eclectic style. This is a global emerging style marked by multiple regional influences reflecting cosmopolitan outlooks. It is often associated with ecological and global awareness, emphasizing circularity, repair, and vintage shopping. This orientation often functions as the conscience of the fashion world.

Elemental Ease

Elemental Ease is designed to be a versatile framework that can be tailored to a variety of personal tastes and lifestyles. Drawing inspiration from various elements, I’ve endeavored to incorporate the best aspects of these ideas into a cohesive stylistic direction. Stylistically, I wanted something that was functional, modular, easy-going, and fashion-forward yet respectful of heritage. From a materials and construction perspective, I wanted to emphasize natural fabrics that age gracefully and feel good from day one. I also care about the hardware and wanted to see that the pieces feature elements like corozo buttons, YKK/Riri zippers, backstitching, and/or thoughtfully designed tags.

Some other considerations include responsible business practices and brand narrative. It is also important that people and the planet are respected in the sourcing and production of clothes, and it helps if the businesses that sell them can report on the traceability of materials, transparency of costs, and carbon footprint. Lastly, when shopping, I look for a seamless brand experience that immerses me in a narrative that resonates with my own values and lifestyle.

Construction

Here we start with a with a simple test. The piece must be built to last and it must be fixable. If there is no real path to repair, usually factors like price or exceptional style would have to compensate for lack of serviceability to consider the piece.

For outerwear, look for sturdy wool, quilted shells with down or wool fill, waxed cotton from trusted mills, and clean suede or leather. Favor tight, even stitching, smooth linings, and dependable zippers from makers like YKK or Riri, especially. Avoid weak pocket fabric, shiny fake leather, and jackets with no way to re-wax or replace a zipper.

For shirts, choose oxford, poplin, twill, or chambray with natural buttons like mother of pearl or corozo. Seek neat seams with no puckering and a small packet of spare buttons. Avoid see-through cloth, brittle plastic buttons, messy stitching, and collars or cuffs that cannot be repaired.

For knitwear, pick pure merino, lambswool, organic cotton, or cashmere in a dense weight that holds its shape. Good yarn spinners include Zegna Baruffa, Todd and Duncan, and Cariaggi. Look for clean joins, firm cuffs and hems, and care notes you can follow. Avoid loose or scratchy knits, high acrylic content that pills fast, and sweaters that trap heat and odor.

For pants, reach for sturdy denim, cotton twill, moleskin, or flannel and worsted wool that drape cleanly. Look for strong pocket fabric, secure belt loops, smooth zips, and enough seam allowance for small alterations. Avoid flimsy pocketing, weak loops, cheap zippers, and very stretchy synthetics that give out quickly.

For shoes, start with full-grain leather or quality suede and prefer soles that are stitched on so they can be replaced. The two best kinds of stitching are Goodyear welted, bench welted and Blake stitched. Many classic British shoemakers such as Trickers are known for their Goodyear welted shoes which can also be bought second hand and resoled. Even stitching around the edge, a layered leather heel, and a clear path to resoling are good signs. For less formal shoes two other types of stitching to look for are “moccasin” or Strobel construction. The Strobel construction combined with “side-walk” stitching is a glue-stitch hybrid commonly used in dressy sneakers like the Common Projects Achilles. Usually when a brand doesn’t mention either of these terms or it’s not visible on the item, it likely means it is a “cemented construction” which means the outsole is only connected to the upper with glue. Avoid fully glued soles with no stitching, paperboard insoles, and any dress pair the brand or a cobbler cannot service.

One fabric note for everything you buy. High polyester content often looks shiny, does not age with a nice patina, runs hot and holds odor, and adds waste to the environment, so keep it to small blends only when a specific performance need makes sense.

Case Studies in Elemental Ease

The following brands have been included because, on a rubric that considers all the criteria above, they have scored at least 4/5. It reflects the highest-quality garments that are ethically and sustainably made, while maintaining an accessible price, style and a fashion-forward approach. 

I’ve discussed some of these brands before in my essay, Owning Well, which explores the relevance of intentional ownership as a contribution to personal well-being.

De Bonne Facture

De Bonne Facture (French for “well-made”) is a line founded by Déborah Sitbon Neuberg, focusing on Parisian chic, décontracté (relaxed) style, natural fabrics, and sustainability. For fabric, they work with weavers and spinners from France, England, Italy, and Peru. Their cotton is usually GOTS certified, and their buttons are typically made from horn, corozo, or mother-of-pearl. It is also a certified B Corporation that values garment durability, atelier traceability, fabric provenance, the ecological impact of its supply chain, and the preservation of industrial know-how.

Bleu de Chauffe

Bleu de Chauffe is a French company that produces high-quality leather goods, focusing on traditional craftsmanship, ethical production, and timeless design. Inspired by vintage workwear bags, Bleu de Chauffe pieces are handcrafted in France using vegetable-tanned leather, which develops a unique patina over time.

Merz B. Schwanen

Using a traditional loop wheel technique, Merz B. Schwanen is known for produce basics made of hefty organic cotton in Germany and Portugal. The heritage is rooted in mid-century workwear, producing hard wearing pieces that stand the test of time. While it may sound like the emphasis is on durability, their garments are also highly regarded in fashion circles.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro Jeans is a Japanese denim label based in Kojima, Okayama, renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Founded under the Japan Blue Group, the brand uses long-staple Zimbabwe cotton, rope-dyed with natural indigo in small batches, and woven on vintage shuttle looms to produce signature pink-selvedge denim. Each garment is cut and sewn entirely in Japan by master artisans, with hardware, stitching, and construction methods designed for decades of wear. The pink selvedge line references the Momotaro folklore (“Peach Boy”), symbolizing Japanese heritage with a subtle, distinctive detail. While not a B Corporation, the brand’s commitment to domestic production, longevity, and skilled labor reflects a slow-fashion ethos grounded in quality over quantity.

ISTO.

This brand is sub labeled “Transparently Made in Portugal.” They release full impact reports including garnet life cycle calculations. They release information on pricing costs and traceability. They even show in the inside of garments in photos. On top, their stuff is accessible in price.

Kotn

Kotn started as a basics brand but has since grown into a wide catalog including unique prints and styles that reflect cosmopolitan themes and influences ranging from North Africa and the broader Mediterranean region. They work to support Egyptian farmers to grow long stape cotton and also support the community through initiatives like the ABCs project.

A Kind of Guise

This brand is German and Munich-based but globally oriented. They cut Italian linen, Scottish wools, and Japanese canvas in small EU ateliers. Collections often reference particular locales, but the shapes are designed to be socially legible worldwide. 

S.E.H Kelly

SEH Kelly is a London-based menswear brand dedicated to small-batch production using cloth from British and Irish mills, often woven to their own specifications. Every piece is made in the UK by specialist workshops, with a focus on restrained, utilitarian design and longevity.

Dehen 1920

Dehen 1920 is a Portland-based heritage brand specializing in robust knitwear, outerwear, and uniforms built to last for decades. Founded by William Peter Dehen in 1920, the company continues to produce in the United States using heavyweight wool, sturdy canvas, and meticulously constructed varsity and motorcycle jackets. Its timeless designs and uncompromising build quality make it a natural fit for Elemental Ease, offering garments that balance utility, authenticity, and enduring style.

One honorable mention that didn’t quite cross the 4/5 threshold but is likely to get there in the future if the brand continues to improve is Officine Générale. OG was founded by Pierre Maheo and is a French line that combines Parisian sensibilities and BCBG style with Mediterranean ease. The quality is superb and the style is super chic. Their olive suede jacket is one of their most popular items that was made popular by the actor Ryan Reynolds in his off-duty fits. If the price point was a bit more accessible and there was better reporting more on their environmental and labor practices, OG would be very aligned with Elemental Ease. I would recommend at least looking out for their stuff on the second hand market.

Four-Season Capsules and the Arithmetic of Cost-per-Wear 

A capsule wardrobe is a simple wardrobe that includes pieces that can be worn in different combinations to generate a high number of outfits for various use cases. It’s essential to establish a capsule wardrobe before investing in statement pieces. In many countries, the capsule must be designed for all four seasons. 

To determine how much to allocate for clothing, spreadsheets can be helpful. This is perhaps the least easy element of elemental ease. The first formula to be aware of is cost-per-wear (CPW). Each category of clothes has a different CPW target. One way to determine this is to consider the total budget for the year for clothes in relation to the total number of days in a year.

For example, if someone spends 5% of their salary on clothing and expects to spend $210 per month on clothing, that would amount to a yearly budget of ~$2,500. If they expect to build a capsule out of that, wearing 5 items per day over 365 days, then their average CPW should work out to be around $1.25 per wear. If the CPW is much higher than it could be, then either there are too many items in the capsule or the items are too expensive. If the CPW is lower, then there is a risk that they may not be getting the best quality pieces for the capsule that they could. As a general rule, the CPW will be higher for seasonal items, such as coats and boots, and lower for items like t-shirts and jeans. 

For example, a ~$2500 basic capsule wardrobe of investment pieces for a man might include an oxford shirt ($200), a pair of jeans ($300), a pair of chinos ($300), a heavy white T-shirt ($100), a coat or jacket ($300), a sweater ($200), a pair of smart casual sneakers ($300) and boots ($400), plus any accessories such as underwear ($200) and sunglasses ($200). If these are the core of what the person wears, these frequently would work out to the CPW above which is considered exceptional. Keep in mind these aren’t all the clothes in the wardrobe but the exceptionally high quality staples that keep the overall wardrobe grounded.

If it is difficult to pull this off with some EE aligned brands at retail, second hand shopping would be required for some things. At the example budget, one could get a Merz T-shirt, some entry level Momotaro Jeans and casual trousers from S.E.H Kelly or a Kind of Guise among other things.

Personal Styling

It’s not enough to have the right clothes, but also to style yourself well. The most important principle of personal styling is the composition of the outfit and its alignment with the occasion. A strong wardrobe has the elements needed to compose such outfits.

Composition

In the debate between minimalism and maximalism, one strategy for effective and balanced composition involves a method known as the 7-point method. The origin of this method is unknown, but it gained popularity on social media and is generally regarded as fashion wisdom passed down in stylist circles. The key idea is that each basic element of the outfit, if it is plain, counts for +1 point. Anything with a pattern, statement, color, or proportions earns +2 points. This approach keeps the outfit visually interesting without becoming too busy. To increase points, people can use certain patterns, such as layering a tank under an unbuttoned shirt or accessorizing with a necklace, bracelet, watch, or textured socks.

For colors, I came up with a simplified version of the color theory used in outfit composition. You can choose your color palette based on whether you look better with gold (warm), silver (cool) or both (neutral). Identify your depth based on your overall coloring including depth of hair color, eye color and skin color between light, medium and deep. Then, you can match the contrast of the colors from these palettes with the contrast between your hair and skin.

For example, I have a neutral tone, with medium depth and contrast (because my skin is medium toned, eyes are brown and hair is black). This means that I can pull off both warm and cool tones like dusty blues, olive greens, camel, soft burgundy, and stone gray but neon, black or bright whites need softening. When wearing patterns it helps for me if the contrast between the colors is moderate rather than stark e.g. navy with chambray, camel with cream, or burgundy with charcoal. For accents, I can get away with colors like burnt orange and forest green.

Formality

The next consideration is how the outfit suits the occasion. Elemental Ease is meant to be sincere yet dignified. It considers clothing a form of language that communicates who you are to the world. Outfits in this way demonstrate self-regard as well as respect for the event. Typically, this is about matching the formality of the dress code. Even over-dressing can be “disrespectful” if you show up others too much. Yet, as a rule of thumb, it’s always safer to be slightly more formal than the least acceptable level of formality for the event. For example, an Oxford cloth button-down (OCBD) with chinos is suitable in a t-shirt and jeans acceptable environment, while a suit is over the top.

Inspiration

Some of the most expert styling I’ve seen has been done at brands like MR PORTER and NET-A-PORTER. While these are luxury brands, their catalogues offer a wide range, and even for those who choose to shop elsewhere, their styling advice and visuals can serve as inspiration for crafting looks.

One additional tool that’s helpful for composing outfits is using a styling software like Stylebook, which is available for both women’s wear and men’s wear. Apps like this allow you to keep your entire closet in a directory, where you can drag and drop items onto a canvas to create looks that you can get creative with before composing the outfit. They also have a calendar function that allows you to schedule outfits for different days of the week.

Toward Elemental Ease

The fashion landscape can be complex, but with the right collection of concepts and tools, we can navigate it effectively, marrying personal stylishness with ease and consideration for labor practices and environmental well-being. There are also planning tools that help make the process manageable from both a budgetary and outfit planning perspective. Elemental Ease serves as a framework to achieve functional, coherent, and fashion-forward capsules that can be relied on for many occasions. 

Photo by Matthew Henry on Unsplash